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Big Island Hawaii Surf Spots
Of all the Hawaiian Islands, The Big Island is the one least associated
with surfing. That being said, it is Hawaii, so of course there will be surfing.
Many of the surfing spots on the Big Island are secret and, because the
island is so large and relatively unpopulated, they will likely remain a secret
for some time. Ask the locals where they surf and you’re likely to get the runaround. If you choose to explore on your own, a four-wheel drive vehicle is often the only way to access many of the remote surfing spots.
Known as the Orchid Isle, The Big Island is the youngest of the Hawaiian Islands and sits on an active volcano. In fact, it is still growing, and is already more than twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands put together. Kilauea Crater emits volcanic vapors that can produce some beautiful, fiery red sunsets; on the downside, when mixed with fog, this same vapor creates a Big Island phenomenon called “vog,” which can be a breathing hazard. And then there are the tremors and the earthquakes. That’s life on The Big Island, a mysterious, remote, awe-inspiring, breathtaking, and other-worldy “heaven on earth.”
Shane Dorian, a pro surfer with 11 years on the circuit, was born in Kona, as was Conan Hayes, a younger pro following in Shane’s footsteps. Supposedly, there is a spot in Kona that resembles Oahu’s Backdoor Pipe, although the exact location will not be revealed here. The first practical body board, officially called the Boogie Board, was tested on a Kona surfing beach called Honl’s by inventor, Tom Morey, in 1971.
On the Kailua-Kona (west) side of the island, Pine Trees is a regional classic for experienced surfers, and a local favorite that also has a bay area for beginners. The main spot in town frequented by local families is Banyans. Kahaluu Beach dishes up some fun waves for all surfers, and, teeming with green sea turtles and other marine life, is also a popular snorkeling spot.
If you’re looking for white sand beaches on the Big Island, you’ll have to head to Hapuna Beach along the Kohala Coast on the northwest side. Known as one of the best beaches in the entire world, Hapuna is great for swimming and snorkeling when the surf is calm. But when the waves are high, only expert surfers and bodyboarders should enter the water due to strong riptides and a heavily pounding shorebreak. The actual surf break is located further out from the beach, at Hapuna Point. If you’re really experienced and are able to make friends with local surfers, have them take you to the Kohala Lighthouse, a world-class, epic right and left reef break. But don’t go alone.
As it is with Hawaiian Island surfing in general, use caution and pay attention to posted warning signs. Since the island is so big, there may not be a lifeguard on duty even at a popular beach; always practice the buddy system.
BIg Island Hawaii Surf Breaks
West Shore - Kahaluu Beach Park |
|
| Surf Location | Off of Alii Drive, near the Ohana Keahu Resort |
| Best Swell Direction | West and Southwest |
| Best Tide | All |
| Best Wind Direction | East |
| Best Surf Season | Summer |
| Wave Quality | Offers three sections of reef with lagoons in between. Each reef is farther out than the previous: the farther the reef, the bigger the waves will be. So, if you're looking for larger waves, paddle to the outer reefs. The first reef is a great wave for beginners. |
| The Surfers | Can get crowded on weekends |
| Boards | Shortboard, funboard, longboard, stand-up paddle board |
| Paddle Out | Moderate, watch where the locals paddle |
| Skill Level | All |
| Bottom | Reef and coral |
| Watch Out For... | Sharp coral and rocks, riptide and undertow, sea urchins, localism |
| Water Condition | Clean and clear |
West Shore - Lymans |
|
| Surf Location | Along the coastal road out of Kona |
| Best Swell Direction | Northwest, Southwest |
| Best Tide | All but high tide |
| Best Wind Direction | Southeast, East |
| Best Surf Season | Summer |
| Wave Quality | A fast and powerful left reef break |
| The Surfers | Can get crowded on weekends |
| Boards | Shortboard, funboard, longboard, stand-up paddle board |
| Paddle Out | Moderate, watch where the locals paddle |
| Skill Level | All |
| Bottom | Reef and coral |
| Watch Out For... | Sharp rocks and coral, sea urchins |
| Water Condition | Clean and clear |
Lymans, Big Island, Hawaii - Surf Video
West Shore - Banyans |
|
| Surf Location | In front of the Kona Bali Kai condominiums. You’ll see a Banyan tree. |
| Best Swell Direction | West and Southwest |
| Best Tide | Mid and High |
| Best Wind Direction | Northeast |
| Best Surf Season | Summer |
| Wave Quality | A hollow and ledgey right and left reef break |
| The Surfers | Can get crowded on weekends |
| Boards | Shortboard, funboard, longboard, stand-up paddle board |
| Paddle Out | Moderate, watch where the locals paddle |
| Skill Level | Experienced |
| Bottom | Reef and coral |
| Watch Out For... | Sea urchins, sharp rocks and coral, localism |
| Water Condition | Clean and clear |
West Shore – Honl’s |
|
| Surf Location | Off of Alii Drive |
| Best Swell Direction | Northwest, Southwest |
| Best Tide | Low |
| Best Wind Direction | North |
| Best Surf Season | Winter and Summer |
| Wave Quality | An epic, hollow, fast and powerful right reef break |
| The Surfers | Can get crowded on weekends |
| Boards | Shortboard, funboard, longboard, stand-up paddle board |
| Paddle Out | Moderate, watch where the locals paddle |
| Skill Level | Experienced and up |
| Bottom | Reef and coral |
| Watch Out For... | Sharp rocks and sea urchins |
| Water Condition | Clean and clear |
West Shore – Pine Trees |
|
| Surf Location | Just south of the airport, take Highway 19 west and turn left onto a dirt road where the Energy Lab is located |
| Best Swell Direction | Northwest, West, Southwest |
| Best Tide | All |
| Best Wind Direction | East |
| Best Surf Season | Summer and Winter |
| Wave Quality | A right reef break, can be fun |
| The Surfers | Can get crowded on weekends |
| Boards | Shortboard, funboard, longboard, stand-up paddle board |
| Paddle Out | Moderate, watch where the locals paddle |
| Skill Level | Experienced and up |
| Bottom | Reef and coral |
| Watch Out For... | Sharp rocks and coral, sea urchins, riptide and undertow, localism |
| Water Condition | Clean and clear |
Northwest Shore – Hapuna Beach |
|
| Surf Location | Road signs visible from Highway |
| Best Swell Direction | Northwest |
| Best Tide | All |
| Best Wind Direction | Southeast, East |
| Best Surf Season | Winter |
| Wave Quality | A short, hollow, fast and powerful right and left sandbar break |
| The Surfers | Can get crowded on weekends |
| Boards | Shortboard, funboard, longboard, stand-up paddle board |
| Paddle Out | Moderate, watch where the locals paddle |
| Skill Level | All |
| Bottom | Sand |
| Watch Out For... | Riptide and undertow, localism |
| Water Condition | Clean and clear |
Northwest Shore – Kohala Lighthouse |
|
| Surf Location | Located on the northwest side of the island, a secret spot where you will need a local guide |
| Best Swell Direction | North, Northwest, Northeast |
| Best Tide | All, but high tide will save you from the reef |
| Best Wind Direction | South, Southeast, East |
| Best Surf Season | Winter |
| Wave Quality | An epic, powerful, long, fast and hollow right and left reef break |
| The Surfers | This is a private beach that is hard to find. There is very heavy localism there, so, mind your manners when surfing. |
| Boards | Shortboard, funboard, longboard, stand-up paddle board |
| Paddle Out | Moderate, watch where the locals paddle |
| Skill Level | Experienced and up |
| Bottom | Flat rocks |
| Watch Out For... | Strong riptides and undertows, sea urchins, sharp rocks |
| Water Condition | Clean and clear |
East Side – Honolii |
|
| Surf Location | On Highway 19 out of Hilo, you’ll see a cemetery. Take the road on the right after the cemetery to the end, then take a left where you see all the cars |
| Best Swell Direction | East, Northeast |
| Best Tide | All |
| Best Wind Direction | West, Southwest, South |
| Best Surf Season | Winter |
| Wave Quality | A hollow, fast, powerful and ledgey right and left rivermouth break; a consistent regional classic |
| The Surfers | Can get really crowded on weekends |
| Boards | Shortboard for the slab. Any board for the rivermouth left. |
| Paddle Out | Moderate, watch where the locals paddle |
| Skill Level | Experienced and up |
| Bottom | Large rocks |
| Watch Out For... | Sharp rocks, localism, tiger sharks |
| Water Condition | Clean and clear |
Honoli'i, Big Island, Hawaii - Surf Video

